![]() ![]() Is the roll pin, in the case for the thrust washer on the mainshaft still intact? The clutch was dragging before so I'm going to look closely at the clutch pressure plate, steels and fibers. So far it looks like I'll end up installing new valves and springs, and hone the cylinders, new rings. This bike has had some new parts installed for sure. ![]() Primary chains, sprockets, and tensioner all look like new. Both cylinders were at 120 or so.ĭidn't get too far after that but what I see looks good. Checked compression when it was together. No up and down play in the rods.īoth jugs look great. I have fixed many things myself that way over the year,including crankcase half and still no leaks after a few years,Rayĭid a little more tonight. If engine is still running strong without internal problem,and you don,t want to spend a few hours work to stop a leak from crankcase,here is something that will stop leak between case or anything else.įirst,use brake cleaner to make sure there is no oil at all on all surfaces,then use a propane torch to heat surface a bit, try another shot of brake cleaner due to expansion and oil still coming out, use 7649 Loctite primer over the entire surface to be seal,then use Loctite 620 green or 680 from up the case to down the case by gravity all through the 2 mating surfaces,primer activated and Loctite is hard within a minutes,then you should be good to run in the next minute after,if preparation was followed correctly. Permanent fix ,without taking everything apart I don't mind buying that one though.įrom another thread on this forum,this is what I did. Looks like I'll also need the clutch tool. Is that a necessity or is there another way to do it? Does this need to be removed for my purposes? I only plan on splitting the cases to inspect, clean, then reseal the cases with Yamabond or a similar sealer. It says I need the pinion gear puller HD96830-51 for 59-76 bikes. Kawasaki beastrun motorcycle manual#After the cams the manual says the next item is the pinion gear. After I pull the pushrods, heads, and cylinders it says to remove the cams. I've never worked on a Sportster so I'm reading the Clymer manual before I begin and have a question. The engine is definitely leaking on the seam near the oil drain plug so I have to split the cases. The engine runs great and has 120 compression on both cylinders. Getting ready to remove and tear down my 76 engine on my newly acquired Sporty. ![]()
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